Thursday, September 28, 2006

eating in Scotland, part 1


Scotland has a bum rap when it comes to food. Think of Scotland and you think of haggis, a local delicacy made from "lesser ingredients."

The reputation is so poor that I came close to cancelling the trip to Scotland in favor of Italy. "Let's go where they know how to cook food," I said. What a mistake that would have been.

Four of us ate three meals a day for a week and none of us had a bad meal. The Scots do a really fine job with seafood, venison, lamb, and beef. We are thinking of a seafood restaurant down by the waterfront in Oban with especially fond memories (halibut, scallops).

All of the B & B's advertise a "Scottish breakfast" that would satisfy a farm hand - porridge, eggs any way you want them, mushrooms, tomatoes ("to-MAH-toes"), various cereals, fruit, toast, jellies, orange juice, coffee. . .enough to do you for the rest of the day, or at least until you see a good place for lunch.

For lunch, you can get almost anything from fish and chips, "pub grub," soups, sandwiches, you name it. You can order haggis for lunch. Some castles and museums have both gift shops and places to order lunch, a convenient way to stay on schedule.

Speaking of haggis, see the photo above. That was the haggis I ordered as a "starter" for dinner at Culcreuch Castle. In a restaurant, you don't get the full-size, uncut haggis which is the stuff of legends and the focus of ceremonies. You do get a nice sampling, though, with veggies on the side. Did I mention "lesser ingredients?" The overall effect was more on the order of meat loaf. You get lesser ingredients in sausages, kielbasa, German wursts, and American hot dogs, all of which I love in the wurst way. Don't ask, don't tell, just eat and enjoy!

Desserts? Oh, yeah. Desserts are an art form in some restaurants. Our favorite dessert was "sticky toffee," which we tried out in different restaurants to see how many ways there are to make it (we got no two alike, all wonderful). I tried to upload a photo but Blogger is rebelling. Maybe later.


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